- MACBOOK PRO USER GUIDE 2010 HOW TO
- MACBOOK PRO USER GUIDE 2010 MAC OS
- MACBOOK PRO USER GUIDE 2010 INSTALL
- MACBOOK PRO USER GUIDE 2010 DRIVER
In searching on the web, there's no post on the web referencing the Kingston HyperX Savage and the MCP89. You should buy something like the Samsung 850 from a place that will allow refunds if the drive doesn't work at SATA2 in your MBP. In my opinion, trying to get a Crucial (or Micron, as it would likely have been sold in Europe) M500 is too expensive - it's $200 here in the US on Amazon for 240GB. For example, Crucial said (it's being phased out) the MX300 "works" with my late-2009 Mini with the MCP79 chip, but the posts I've seen the web says it doesn't work at SATA2 with the MCP79. Manufacturers may say their drive "works" in a computer but unless they specifically say it will work at SATA2 speeds with the MCP79/MCP89 chip, it may not. Same with Crucial and the MX500 line (not to be confused with the M500). Samsung now has a new line of SSD's - the 860's - I don't know if they are SATA2 compatible with the MCP79/MCP89. While I have seen a couple of posts on the web where people had problems with the MCP79/MCP89 and the Samsung 850 Evo, most (and the 850 Evo's are very popular) have been able to get SATA2 speeds. People in the comments section who actually tried out the Evo 850 found it could work at SATA2, except for one poster who couldn't get the SSD to work (so difficult to say if it was the poster, software, a defective SSD or something else). In the article linked in post #9, when they mention Samsung incompatibility, they reference the Samsung 840 (did not specify whether it was the Pro or Evo). The MCP89 (what should be in the 2010 MBP) works at SATA2 speeds with more SSD's than the MCP79. It's much easier to fix things if you still have a working drive IN the MacBook as you prep the new one. Now, shut everything down and "do the drive swap".
MACBOOK PRO USER GUIDE 2010 INSTALL
Do a "test boot" from the SSD to be sure that the install is workingĮ. Now, either do a clean install of the OS onto it, or perhaps use a cloning app (CarbonCop圜loner or SuperDuper) to clone the contents of your internal drive to the SSD.ĭ.
MACBOOK PRO USER GUIDE 2010 MAC OS
Open Disk Utility and erase it to Mac OS extended with journaling enabled, GUID partition formatĬ. connect the SSD to the adapter/dongle and plug it inī. I suggest that you "prep and test" the new drive BEFORE you install it.Ī.
MACBOOK PRO USER GUIDE 2010 DRIVER
You'll need a TORX T-6 driver to remove the "busses" on the old drive and secure them to the new one.
MACBOOK PRO USER GUIDE 2010 HOW TO
If you installed RAM, you already know how to take off the back. If you think the RAM "made a difference", wait until you try an SSD. The only working solutions came from Crucial in the form of M500s, which are WAY out of production.īe careful with your SSD selection on any Nvidia-chipset Mac. How many of these are out there nowadays is anyone's guess, but essentially, all of Samsung's, Intel's, Sandisk's, etc are out. You can google the issue, but here is a link to get you started:Įssentially, you need to find a Nvidia MCP-compatible SSD. There has not been a comprehensive attempt to figure out which modern SSDs since 2009-2010 era that works with the Nvidia MCP-series (79 and 89) since then. I also personally used this series of SSD on Nvidia MCP-series chipsets with success. The ONLY solutions at the time (a few years ago) that were confirmed working, without data corruption in a few months time (varies from 1 month or so to a few at the most) and without downlinking from SATA II to SATA I speeds were the Crucial M500s.
It probably has absolutely nothing to do with your SSD.
The problem is that the Nvidia controller can not properly negotiate SSD speeds and leads to both This (SSD compatibility) is a CLASSIC issue with any Nvidia MCP-chipset based Macs, all circa 2008-2011ish. I'll quote what I said elsewhere on this matter: